Valloloko’s shaving soaps (like any non-tallow American ‘artisan’ shaving soaps) are stearic-based “croap” options maximizing ease of lather creation, lather volume, and stability – things the American shaving market by and large wholly demands.
Actually, now that this is in-stock, I can say to you upon 6/02/2020 that while the formulation is the type which would lend one to believe it a ‘croap’, it is notably physically harder than this, and in so being hopefully provides a lower cost-per-session than a true ‘croap’ which is always about the highest cost-per-session you can find if using a premium fragrance base. It would be fairer to characterize this is a ‘soap – cured but not milled’ type though by ingredient list it definitely reads like a croap/cream. STABILITY OF THE LATHER IS TREMENDOUS, I can tell you that with one test shave. I should have weighed the puck I took for calculations of true expense, but I’ll shave with it all this week and keep detailed notes for 3-4 shaves so an estimate of burn rate can be realized.
Unlike most American producers, Valloloko only uses essential oils for their fragrance bases, and in many cases actually presses these oils themselves from the raw elements, which certainly gives the Valloloko line a high degree of fragrance and authenticity.
Unlike the American artisans, Valloloko must pass the ultra-strict EU independent certifications for soap, which require each scent/base combination to be independently tested for long term risks of stability/allergen. In the view of The Superior Shave, this makes them better than the American artisan soaps that are not legally sold in the EU. Many issues of allergy and skin irritation require long term exposure and the Wild West nature of the wholly un-certified American scene makes them in our view highly suspect. You cannot simply buy a bunch of heavy lipid oils and start playing chemistry class with the end consumers in the EU, not unless you have thousands of dollars for each attempt’s clearances – and these things are not in place just to help “big soap” squelch out artisanal work, they’re there because you are at significant risk without them.
The Terracotta Warrior soap is reddish hued with clay, with a subtly enlightening Asian aroma. With mandarine orange and carrot oils, Valloloko claims it is particularly suitable for windy days with fluctuating air temperatures: the red clay helps with dry skin.
Valloloko an artisan German soap making firm in the grand Euro traditions – small production keeping quality first at all times. Surfactants, mineral oils, paraffin waxes, and any other ‘bad’ cosmetics “necessities” are eschewed here. This does raise cost, of course, and the big high-end brands like to use them. But you always get what you pay for in the soap game.
Each batch of Valloloko’s supremely tested by hyper-anal German master blenders that are part metrologist (hey, measuring stuff is fun), part parfumer. All labor is 100% by hand. Valloloko produces their own raw materials via cold press of raw oil seeds wherever possible! This provides a quite fragrant aroma without using fragrance oil.
Ingredients (INCI): STEARIC ACID, AQUA, COCOS NUCIFERA OIL, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, SESAMUM INDICUM, CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS SEED OIL, POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM HYDROXIDEKAOLIN, KAOLIN, PARFUM (natural essential oils), CITRONELLOL*, GERANIOL*, LINALOOL*, LIMONENE*